Towing a boat..need advice

[dustin]

Hello,

I am planning to tow my 28 Center Console behind my 65 High Tech this year out to Marsh.

Where can I get a bow reinforcement for the bow eye?

How far back is the best length to tow at?

What is the best type of line to use? (I assume you want something that floats)

Are there any "wired" alarms that would let me know if the boat broke away?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Dustin Secor
Accu Venture

[steamboat]

Wouldn't it be easier to find someone to run your boat over following the "mother ship" and then fly them back? Should be able to get a volunteer off this board or from friends.

[ncdd]

I would not be as worried about floating as I would be about the line having stretch, So I would reccomend nylon!!

[mrbill]

Last year a friend towed their flats boat from keys to MH.

they installed a ss plate both sides of the hull, to form a V.
the plate was 4" tall, and about 2' wide, and backed with similar ss plate.

They then used 1" polypro (Home Depot), about 150' and about a 25' bridle.

the eye of the tow line was inserted into the bridle. (there was some wear, but worked for the month they were there (keys-abaco-exumas-abaco-keys)

it worked well, and the mother boat was able to plane (~20knts in 42' sportfish) the flats boat sat just inside the wake. (this has to be tested and lenghtened or shortened depending on the wake you throw.) (looking for the 'calm' part of the wake. like pulling a skiier)


the tow 'strap' plate was expensive, but worked great. I thought it overkill for a flats boat, but your 28' may need it.... think cost was over a grand!

(The strap was also low, so the bow was pulled upwards. over waves.)

[pacharlie]

Heavy polypropylene ( it floats) is a must and stretches enough. I think most all literature suggests a bridle around the transom. With a 28 footer you may be asking too much form a bow eye only-- without a bridle incorporated in some fashion to relive stress on the bow--. Consult with Boat/US and/or look in Chapman's Seamanship and Small Boat Handling....

Best advice - have someone drive it over. Being towed after losing an engine in a twenty six footer was the longest week I ever spent in a day on the water.

[Abacofever]

Call your insurance company and let them know what you are planning. I am pretty sure they will not cover the boat being towed. Most companies now refuse to offer a towing indorsement. They roll over all the time. Mostly behind yachts and sportfishers traveling over 15 knots. Good luck.

[Dave Davis]

You say "out to Marsh". But you fail to say from where? If from FL, this is potentially a huge first jump. If from Powell Cay, it is not a big deal. Strongly suggest many and varied trial runs in your home waters first. This will let you gain much needed experience. From the questions you ask, you should prepare yourself and your vesselsfor this effort. Make a point of going out in really bad weather to test your contingency plans. Determine ahead of time how you will skuttle the tow if necessary.

You may want to consider taking a course in towing from a school that provides the corresponding USCG license. Don't forget about the requirements for appropriate running lights for both vessels when under tow.

Also, this may not qualify as a dingy because of its size. And because it's not entering on its own power, it may not be eligible for a cruising permit. Hence, it becomes a dutiable item. Not absolutely sure, but something you want to check.

[Buk Miller]

check out my website, we may have just what you need as far as a bridle

[SamFamAustin]

I don't think it's a big problem but you do need all the facts, like the messages in this thread (great job, folks). My folks have towed a few sailboats over from Lauderdale with a trawler and had no problems - but they also had no big seas or chop. Of course, my dad was CG auxiliary at one time and was smart enought to ask for over-sized cleats with stainless steel backing. One thing that may help is a shock absorber. These are often black rubber tubes and you wrap the line around a few times - when the boat jerks in a trough, the line stretch is somewhat absorbed by the flexible rubber. Another idea is chafing gear. If there are any sharp metal surfaced near the bow the line could cut the tow line real fast; headstays on sailboats are real bad about this. A few dollars spent at West Marine could give you a piece of mind not worrying about your cheap rubber hose and duck tape job. I'm not too sure about the "bridle" concept because we always used one stout tow rope - I mean 5/8" twisted or woven poly line. The commercial guys mostly use one straight pull, too. Bridles could work but adding extra joints (at least to me) adds more risk of the tow parting company. Regards,
Sam

[jombee]

Yale makes a "reinvented poly" called Lugger Line that is specific to this type of use.
The reinvented part is better U.V. resist and chafe properties...........
Jombee

[Fletcher]

We have towed our 20 foot Albury behind a 46 grand banks for several years. The nylon line has the stretch which is much easier on the towed boat and the attach shackle. The poly does float but it is more prone to break something. Should something break it is a good idea to have an emergency line available. Remember when something breaks it will not be flat calm and retrieving the towed boat will be difficult. We use 175 feet 3/4 inch braided nylon with a 40 foot bridle.

Another issue is engines up or down. Up has less drag but the towed boat will fishtale especially if it gets caught in the wake or in a following sea. Engines down the boat will track straight but increased drag.

A little over a year ago we sold the 20 and bought a 23. With twin engines and the added lenght the tow game is over. Also consider handling the "dingy" while docking. At 28 feet have your buddy on board the 65 run it accross.

You will definitely need cruising permits for both boats. I think the limit for the dingy is under twenty feet and it may have to be onboard.

Fletcher