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Megalops
08-28-2006, 10:00 PM
Hey Y'all,

Newbie here with a general question.

I have a 36' trawler which I am moving to Ft. Lauderdale for Jan, Feb, Mar, April '07.

I'm making long range plans for a 3 week trip at the end of April/begining of May with my wife and 2 sons (5 & 9). We are pretty experienced cruisers and boaters--I make part of my living as a fishing guide. Our cruise speed is about 8 knots and we draw 3 feet. I'm planing on crossing back to Stuart where we can cut through the waterway on our way home.

Now the questions.

Is 3 weeks enough? I laid out a rough trip plan and came up with 16 days with no layovers. I figure to add 5 days to this for weather/fun layovers. Does this seem in line?

I have an 18' flats boat which we tow a lot here in the Northern Gulf. It tows great. I want to do as much fishing as possible and also have more range than the trawler gives us. Is it worth bringing it?

How much will cruising permits set me back? I have heard I may have to pay the full fee for both boats?

If we plan to spend a few nights in marinas do I need to make reservations?

Where are the best spots for kids?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Doug

big fish
08-29-2006, 08:36 AM
Hello Doug,

I can't answer all of your questions, but being a fisherman, I would definitely bring the flats boat. That's a great time for some fishing. You can probably even get out offshore at that time of the year for some trolling if you want to. I would think that you can just get the fishing permit for the second boat, which is only $25 I think. That boat would also be very valuable for getting around. You will love Abaco!

Bruce

CATNAPSzzz
08-29-2006, 09:02 AM
Lots to see and do but that isn't the main concern. You want to factor in the fronts and rough seas from time to time during that period...they do lessen as you approach April but still can be windy. Depending on ones's confidence and experience some cruisers have been known to wait for days and weeks over in Florida for the "crossing window", others just plow right ahead.

As regards marinas their is generally room at most of them during the Jan to mid-March period but it is always a good idea to reserve ahead. Having said that it is understandabl that conditions might not allow you to make firm reservations that you will be able to keep. I wouldn't worry about finding a spot at the last minute and the worst that could happen is that you drop the hook if needs be.

All the marinas respond on VHF Ch. 16 and you should have a list of them and their locations beforehand.

As always we suggest listening to the Cruiser's NET on VHF Ch. 68 every morning at 8:15a.m. for weather and other valuable information regarding local activities. You can ask any questions you want at that time.

TheKurp
08-29-2006, 09:23 AM
Have you read this?

http://www.************/TravelinginyourBoat.html

Alan Brown
08-29-2006, 09:39 AM
Doug,

Three weeks is plenty of time to cruise the Abacos. However, you have chosen that time of year to visit when adverse weather conditions are highly probable. This can become a big problem if you're trying to meet a schedule. The Sea of Abaco is wonderfully sheltered from the worst of the weather, but getting there requires crossing some long stretches, especially the Gulf Stream, which can become really uncomfortable when a "norther" is blowing.

Your quesstimate as to layover time for weather is probably on the low side. If the weather gods smile upon you, you may lose no time. However, during my first crossing to Nassau I lost 3 weeks in Key Largo, 2 days at N. Cat Cay, and 10 days at Chub Cay, all to weather. This took place in October, usually a much better travel month than what you have planned. I had a boat much like yours.

A really close watch on the weather forecasts will help you determine what conditions you're apt to encounter, not only for the crossing, but for the return trip as well. You may have to cut your trip short and hustle back to West End in order to get across the Stream before the winds pick up again. Otherwise, you could find yourself pinned to the dock in Grand Bahama waiting for the next weather window.

Marina space should not be a problem. You'll be visiting during the off-season.

Cruising permit fees will run you $300 for your trawler and perhaps another $150 for your flats boat.

Sorry to be a bit of a pessimist, but Bahamian weather is pretty predictable, especially during the winter months. For more information access Dr. Ralph's website and pick up a Dodge Guide to the Abacos.

Good luck!

Megalops
08-29-2006, 10:14 AM
Thanks for the help guys. The exact time period I'm looking at is the last few days of April and the first 2 1/2 weeks of May. Doesn't the frequency of Northers drop pretty drastically by then? I know May is pretty much the best weather month of the year for us up here...we usually get one or maybe two cold fronts, which is way better than April, but the afternoon thunderstorms don't start until June. As the crow flies I'm about 350 miles north of Lauderdale.

I'm not the type to take a risk in crossing the gulfstream, especially with my family along and towing another boat. From what I've read and from people I have talked to ANY wind from the north would result in a no go for us.

How long do Northers usually last at that time of year? How often do they come through then?

Already got the Dodge guide, it is a great cruising guide.

Thanks again.

Knockdown
08-29-2006, 10:28 AM
Allan answered as I would above!

The crossing to and from will be the issue that time of year. The kids and wife would need some sea legs for sure.

I would count on some window in Lauderdale and then leave a good 4 day window in West End for the cross home.

In between that I would just play it all by ear (weather) and just travel as much or as little as you feel. All of the Abacos are great so if you get stuck in an area, you won't be dissapointed! (I'm assuming you are hitting the Abacos). Most of the water between all the cays is fairly protected.

I would not worry at all about reserving marina space. Should be fine most anywhere you go.

You have to decide if you are crossing to West End or are you going south and around????

If it were me: South Fla. to West End - Spanish - Green Turtle - Treasure - Guanna - Hopetown - Marsh. Reverse back home!

Good luck and sounds like a great time for you!

dogfish
08-29-2006, 11:16 AM
Doug,
May can be windy windy windy even with little frontal activity. I have a friend that plans to use his boat to see the Air and Sea air show in Ft. Lauderdale each year in May and I'm not sure he has ever been able to do it. This past year was exceptionally calm in the middle of May, so that makes it 1 out of 3 for us for trips in May.

-Doug

Megalops
08-29-2006, 11:35 AM
hmmmm, that doesn't sound too encouraging, wind wise. I understand how a north wind effects the stream, but how about winds from the s or se quadrant? Say a typical 10 to 15 from the SE 2 to 4 forecast? What does that translate to in the axis of the stream?

My plan now (admittedly a REALLY long range plan) is to cross to West End, then Great Sale, Double Breasted, Spanish, and into the Sea of Abaco with all it's attractions, then backtrack to West End, clear out and use the stream to push us north to Stuart.

Given bad weather, I would head South to the keys maybe to the Tortugas (a trip I have done before) and up Florida bay, ending at my parents house in Ft. Myers.

Alan, just out of curosity what specifc weather held you in Key Largo for 3 weeks? What time of year was that?

Thanks

Noontide
08-29-2006, 11:41 AM
Not going into the layover time due to weather I think its been covereed well with the previous post here our experience traveling with our boys now 10 & 7.

Is 3 weeks enough?

No but that is all we ever had and it worked fine for us. Adding 5 days for weather would be great specially if you don't need them.

Is it worth bringing the flats boat?

I would say yes as long as the normal issues relating to towing don't bother you. We take our inflatable over on the davits but once we cross the stream we tow it everywhere.

How much will cruising permits set me back?

Yes you may have to pay for both boats but have heard of people getting away with paying for only one as long as they towed the skiff in.

If we plan to spend a few nights in marinas do I need to make reservations?

Bad thing about reservations is cancelling due to bad weather, you may get stuck paying anyways. I recomend reservations at West end if you plan on stopping there otherwise I would play it by ear and reserve as you get closer to using it.

Where are the best spots for kids?

Everywhere!! Our prefference is the uninhabited northern cays for great beaches and exploring but when it comes to populated cays, the basketball court in front of Miss Emily's is the best. Lots of locals and visitors gather there while us parents just sit accros the street.

Knockdown
08-29-2006, 12:27 PM
Actually your dates are a great time to be over there.....weather wise and fish wise! Late April can of course be windy but with a 3 week schedule you will be able to cross I'm sure at some reasonable point in your window.

With 4 day windows on each end that still gives you about 13 days in the Abacos which I would kill to be able to do that! So I say, yes, go for it.

With your trawler, if you do happen to not make a marina or if one is full (but there is usually some space if you are creative) then you would be fine on the hook....specially that time of year.

Bring the lil boat if you feel comfortable towing across the stream. It will be a blast with the boys to get up early and cruise the sea of Abaco or just off shore exploring and fishing! Customs will prolly charge for the lil boat though...but in the grand scheme 150.00 is not much.

I would do your plan and when the half way point of time is met you just turn around and back track!

big fish
08-29-2006, 08:02 PM
Doug,

With your experience, and your backup plan, I wouldn't be too concerned about the negative comments. It sure can be almost anything in that time period between winter and summer, but fronts at that time of year are generally short lived, and you can usually find a "window" for crossing safely. West End is only about 60 miles from S. Florida, if you need to wait out your return crossing. It's even closer from Bimini. You could end up with downright balmy conditions. I would put the chances of good weather at way above even. Just my observations.

Winds from the SE are great for crossing the stream generally. Anything out of the north is the real problem. I don't have a trawler, but I wouldn't try it if it's out of the North, if I were you.

The fishing is excellent at that time of year. I was out in the ocean trolling in mid April this year, and there was a ten foot inflatable right out there with me, and the Dolphin were biting! One really great thing about trolling in Abaco is that you only need to go about a mile offshore to fish for pelagics! The inshore fishing in Abaco can be almost as good as the Dry Tortugas too.

tight lines----------------------------<')))))))))><

Bruce

SamFamAustin
08-29-2006, 09:09 PM
Yea Big Fish, that's the spirit! Did the Vikings not go to Iceland because some folks said it could be cold, rough, and windy? No, they went because they could! If you can digest the weather reports and read the waters you make your own decision.

You asked about the cold fronts. Usually what happens before the front is that the wind will blow from the SE hard for two days and then relax on the third. Then a cold front will come down WHAM and blow from the N-NW for two to three days fairly strong. The wind then will go NE and then SE increasingly weaker for maybe a day or so. The cycle repeats itself as long as you don't have any "double shots" of cold fronts, which can give you a week of miserable weather. On average, the cycle repeats every 7 days like clockwork.

I hope this makes some sense. Sometimes at that Florida latitude the persistent NE winds can be particularly bothersome in the spring. These are usually dry winds (the dry fire season the FL) but can set up against the Gulf and make some nasty chop on top of the swell. If that is the main problem, well, the ride back ought to be a memorable one. Sam

p.s. you didn't mention if you were a sail trawler or all power?

Sail41
08-29-2006, 09:21 PM
Doug,



While that time of the year may present some weather challenges, we cruise a trawler and leave from WPB and always come back via Stuart as we live in Port St. Lucie. We have crossed many times in your time frame. As long as you don't have a definate "I have to" planned schedule you should have a great trip.

Bahamian customs seems to go one way or the other as to the flats boat. I use a 15' whaler for my dinghy. It seems it's up to the customs person if they will charge for the smaller boat or not. Earlier this year they were charging for hard dinghy's such as ours and yours in the Green Turtle area and not so in the Exumas or other areas. It's kind of a Deja Vu of a few years ago when clearing customs in say West End, both customs and immigration would charge extra and stuff it in their pockets. Always had to be cash too!

Looking at your trip plans, we usually leave WPB and clear the sea buoy at 5 am and arrive at great sale before 5 pm. We travel at 7.5 to 8. kts and pick up a little more in the stream. We always go via Memory rock and skip west end. I see you plan on Double Brested Cay, take the time to go to Rosies in Grand cay(easily done in a dingy in less than 5 minutes) While not a tourist type place, the food is great. The anchorage is good as well, although the bugs can be visicious at times. We enjoy it there.

We usually spend more time that your alotted schedule, but if you're not in a hurry, spend a night in the Stuart Anchorage and take the family in for some fun in a quaint downtown with some great eating and watering places.

Have fun and leave a few days for weather.

Alan Brown
08-30-2006, 09:39 AM
Doug,

Good advice all around!

I think your choice of April-May is perfect. May has always been my favorite cruising month in the Bahamas. The northers are almost gone and the thunderstorms haven't arrived yet. Water temps are good and the bugs are at a minimum.

In answer to your question, I got stuck in Ley Largo in October 1999 waiting out a hurricane and going through a tropical storm. Once things cleared up, the gosh darn wind blew 25 knts. or so out of the E-NE and the Gulf Stream was all stirred up. I opted to wait for a good window and spent the last week tied up to a mooring ball in Pennecamp. Finally got a good day so crossed to N. Cat Cay in my Mainship 35.

The winds picked up again that night, gusting up to 45 knts. Two days later things eased up and the forecast didn't look too bad so we left the marina and started across the Banks to Chub Cay. The first couple hours were fine and we tooled along at 15 knts. Then the wind started up again and my speed dropped as the waves got steeper. To make a long story short, the 80 mile crossing we figured would take about 6 hours, ended up taking almost 14. We didn't reach Chub Cay until almost midnight. After another 10 days at Chub, and after 2 aborted tries to leave, we were finally able to cross to Nassau.

Based on this experience, I learned to wait patiently for weather windows and not live by a schedule. Hard and fast schedules can cause some folks to make risky decisions and take unnecessary chances. We go boating for fun, not to test our powers of endurance.

I hope you have a fantastic trip to the Abacaos!

Alan

Megalops
08-30-2006, 10:40 AM
Thanks guys. The Vikings were also motivated by a bildge full of beer, so in that respect we are not much different.

You have pretty much confirmed my thoughts about weather, and have all given great advice, which I will take.

My trawler is a 36' gulfstar, twin diesels, genset, a steadying sail that doesn't do too much, all the assorted electrical goodies. It's comfortable, heavy, slow, sea worthy and reliable. It will also roll peanut butter out of an unopened jar in a side sea.

We love to spend time on the hook. That is what we usually do up here in the mullet republic, there aren't many marinas here, even if we liked them.

The boat will be in Lauderdale, we will be up here in Wakulla, and we can all leave at a moments notice at that time of year, so my plan is to watch for a weather window from up here, then when it looks like we are about 2 days from a window, hop in the truck and head down. I'll asess it again in S.Fl before we cross, then have 3 weeks to play with from there.

Stuart is nice, I work down there sometimes.

I have heard the bonefishing is pretty good around the Great Sale/Grand Cays area, so I want to spend some time there. I'm a tarpon guide, so I really love inshore/near shore stuff the best.

This is a great board. Thanks a ton for all your help. I'll continue to check in as our departure gets closer.

MountainTop
09-04-2006, 05:34 PM
If it makes you feel better May 06 and 05 perfect for your trip. But May of 04 it blew the entire month and finally calmed down the last weekend for Memorial Day just so I could cross over for our Abaco vacation.Hope you have perfect weather since I have been thinking of going then as well. Good Luck.