Attitude Adjustment on Abaco 2001: Part 4

Attitude Adjustment on Abaco 2001: Part 4
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Friday 7/27/01 @ 8:02 p.m. EST

Wednesday, July 10
9 AM finds me in Attitude's cockpit surveying the results of what appears to have been a tropical storm. Right now it's sunny, but the SW wind is up to 25 knots, and there are numerous low, dark clouds. The picnic camps on S Dock have been ravaged by wind and rain. Soft drinks drift from drenched cardboard flats, trash has blown everywhere, there's a broken umbrella here, an overturned stroller there, general chaos.

I walk up the hill to the hotel so I can read the weather report and spend a little time with the weather computer in the telephone room. The low is still just north of us and is not predicted to move any time soon. The NWS calls for SW winds of 15-20 knots and numerous thunderstorms. Over breakfast Bunny and I ponder the reality that we will have to spend the first week of our cruise battling this weather system. We develop two strategies: stay on the ocean side of the offshore cays as much as possible, and always have a ready plan for the next squall.

Today's itinerary calls for us to travel ESE to Spanish Cay Resort, almost 60 nm. We throw off lines at 10:30 and head SE for the SW tip of Grand Cay. Several sources have warned us that the deepwater passage around Grand Cay has shoaled as a result of Hurricane Floyd. We round Burying Piece Rock and hug the rocky shoreline; there is 5-6 feet as long as you stay very close to the rocks. At one point I stray a little too far south, and we bump in 2 ½ feet. As we approach Sandy Cay we find plenty of deep water, and we can throttle up. As we head toward little Sayle Cay we are pounded by 2-3 footers on our starboard beam; it's not a pleasant ride. Then we turn more toward the east, the ride softens, and I'm able to make 25 knots. We pass just south of Carter's Cay Bank; we had planned to stop and explore this gorgeous turquoise shoal, but there are two-footers breaking on the shallow bank. So we continue on to the Fish Cays where we hope to find sheltered water.

A little after Noon we ease into the cove on the SE of Big Fish Cay. The guides describe a nice beach here, but it looks a little scruffy, and grass comes right up to the beach. We turn SE and slide over the shallows until we're in the anchorage between Upper Cay and its unnamed opposite. The anchorage is pleasant, but from the tower I can see a pretty beach a little further down the cay, so we work our way another 400 yards or so until we anchor in 7 feet just off an attractive little beach on the north side of Upper. There are rocks between us and the beach, so we put on shoes and float over them on styrofoam noodles.

Here I must digress for a moment. We are great fans of noodles; Attitude carries four of them as part of her cruising compliment. Years ago we had been fishing off Bimini, it had been very hot, we'd been out all day, and after several hours we just wanted to get in the water and cool off. There is a beautiful beach on the west side of Alice Town, most notably opposite Seacrest and Blue Water, and in the prevailing SE wind it's sheltered. We anchored in four feet of flat water, made a rum drink, eased into the water with our noodles and just bobbed for an hour. It was a wonderful relief, and we named the area "Noodle Beach." On subsequent cruises we have always been on the lookout for Noodle Beach, and we have established stringent criteria: the water must be warm, clear, and very quiet, the bottom sandy and free of rocks and debris, and the colors must be electric. Our little beach on Upper Cay comes close.

Once we reach shore we explore the area. This is a wild, lonely spot, no one is around, there are no footprints, and the only sign of civilization is the odd collection of trash and jetsam that is strewn about the beach. Bunny finds an old paint bucket and collects some net floats; these will be added to the others on our wooden fence at home. We watch an ocean tally, a flat stocky fish two feet in length, feed from a shallow tide pool; he literally turns on his side and slides into water only a few inches deep. Glass minnows are everywhere, odd birds flutter about, heavy clouds stream overhead, and it is very quiet. We look at Moraine Cay in the distance, beckoning us from across the grassy shallows.

We weigh anchor and idle toward Moraine; the books describe this as an exotic cay with two gorgeous beaches, and we're anxious to see it. I run Attitude from her tower, Bunny rides on her soft bow pad. As we near the island, I can see that rocky shallows guard her western beach, and the SW wind has made this area untenable. We swing an arc south and pick our way through several rocks. The eastern beach is accessible, but, alas, there are at least ten other boats in the small anchorage. A house is being built near the beach, a large catamaran is beached opposite the house and people are offloading supplies, dense grass comes right up to the beach; we are very disappointed. We decide to press on to Spanish Cay.

Our 15 mile run over a sloppy 2-foot chop takes us along Umbrella, Allans-Pensacola, and the Hog Cays, and finally on into Spanish. Spanish Cay is along, narrow island with a beautiful beach and gorgeous flora. The resort was badly damaged by Hurricane Floyd; it has since been completely rebuilt. A rock breakwater creates a relatively sheltered harbour; a system of elaborate docks forms the marina. As we enter we are struck by two things: the boats in this marina are BIG, 50, 75, 100 feet, and they're all gently pitching from the surge that is working its way through the breakwater. Bunny and I exchange a knowing glance: if these vessels are getting bumped around, imagine what's going to happen to us! Dockmaster Felix puts us in a slip deep in the marina behind two large boats hoping to dampen our motion. It works to some extent, but even when we are snugly tied up, Attitude rises and falls about a foot.

We are anxious to explore; we clean up Attitude and give her a quick bath. Then we put on beach cover-ups and walk along the dock until we reach the ramp to the marina office. An early impression: the cooperative ambience and camaraderie of Walker's is not evident here, at least toward strangers. The guests appear wealthy and a little aloof; we guess many of them have full time captains and crew who run their boats until the owners fly in for a week or so. Our "hellos" generate a few conversations, but this is definitely not Walker's, Toto. Checkin proceeds well, we meet the resort manager Richard and his wife (never got her name); these people seem as if they are everywhere at once. Over the next two days we find both of them at virtually every spot on the island, they are very "hands on;" the first class quality and organization of this facility is a direct result of their efforts.

Leaving the marina office we round the dining room and find a delightful outdoor bar and adjoining fresh water pool. The grounds are lush; the buildings are painted a "shrimpy" orange with white trim. Patrice, the barmaid, is putting the finishing touches on a soft maroon frozen drink. I inquire of the recipient, she cheerfully informs me that it's a Strawberry Colada, and offers me a taste. Folks, I usually don't like foofy drinks, but this is tropical nirvana, I gotta have one. Bunny stays with her standard vodka/tonic; drinks in hand, we ease into the pool. There is a waterfall in one corner, and for a moment I let the gentle water cool my fried scalp. I might wanna stay here for a while.

Yet here comes the next squall; the sky darkens, the wind picks up, and we hustle back to Attitude just in time. This one lasts a half-hour; we head out to explore when a second one drives us under a gazebo. It's another quickie, and soon we're able to make our way up the hill that forms the spine of Spanish Cay and on to the north side. We walk through lush tropical foliage, past giant banyon trees and hardwoods, then out onto a point where a decked walkway leads to the Wreckers Bar. This is a raised octagonal structure that is built on piles over a rocky point that extends toward the ocean. To the left a perfect beach gently curves along the shoreline. The late afternoon sun is just peeking around dense gray and purple clouds, splashing us with yellows and oranges. We are in bathing suits and have left wallets at the boat, so we pass on the bar. But the beach pulls us like a magnet, and soon we are in the warm shallow water, stretched out in a foot or so of salty liquid perfection. We sit like this for an hour, watch the last party leave the bar, leaving a solitary figure to sit, gazing at the sunset, just as we are doing. You know, if we'd have been alone....

Back at Attitude I crack four of yesterday's conchs with a meat mallet, then set up our little deep fryer on her transom. The sole benefit of sustained 20-knot winds is a relative paucity of insects, so we are able to cook out. We have fried conch, mixed veggies, a salad, and a little rum. By the time we have cleaned up it is 10, and we settle into our bunks, wondering if the motion will allow us to sleep.

Top:Bunny at her perch on the bow
Bottom: the deserted beach on Upper Cay

Sorry to hear about Moraine.....
dp <dennyparker@earthlink.net> -- on Saturday 7/28/01 @ 11:14 a.m. EST

....there used to be a "welcome - please don't litter" sign placed by the owner. Sounds like the place sold and I wonder if its all private now....anybody know?

Re: Dr. Ralph, the Author!!!
Pat S. <psmmech@webtv.net> -- on Sunday 7/29/01 @ 9:52 p.m. EST

Doc, I tell you what! You need to write a book about your trips to Abaco. Laura and I talked today on the phone and we both think you could write a helluva book! Ever thought about it?

Need a publisher!
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 7:47 a.m. EST

Check it out!!
Gary M <Uboats737@aol.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 7:55 a.m. EST

http://www.lights.com/publisher/

GM

Let's see!!!!!!!!!!!
CabanaMon <cabanaman_9949@msn.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 8:56 a.m. EST

The possibilities are endless:
"Abaco Travelog"
"Boating to,from and around Abaco"
"Everything you always wanted to know about Sunburn, Sealice and other off- shore maladies, but were afraid to ask"
"How to Catch and Clean Conch"
"Bunny and Dr. Ralph ride out The Perfect Storm and live to tell about it"
"Sportfishing and Bonefishing in and around the sea of Abaco"
"The History of Abaco as seen through the eyes of Dr. Ralph"
and last but not least,
"The Adventures of the Dr. Ralph,OB/GYN and his Traveling Bunny" (That title should catch folks attention)

C-Mon

BTW I would be willing to head up your world book signing tour.

Thanks; career change at 51??????
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 9:55 a.m. EST

Re: What did I tell you???
Pat S. <psmmech@webtv.net> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 6:55 p.m. EST

Since it was mine and Laura's idea, I think the first book needs to be dedicated to us! The cover could have Bunny floating around on her "noodle"! Of course...Laura and I would have no objection to being on the cover with her and a couple of "noodles" of our own!!!!

Dr R takes Gary M fishing in Abaco, Vol One
Gary M <Uboats737@aol.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 11:42 a.m. EST

Re: Dr. Ralph, the Author!!!
Pat S. <psmmech@webtv.net> -- on Sunday 7/29/01 @ 9:52 p.m. EST

Doc, I tell you what! You need to write a book about your trips to Abaco. Laura and I talked today on the phone and we both think you could write a helluva book! Ever thought about it?

Need a publisher!
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 7:47 a.m. EST

Check it out!!
Gary M <Uboats737@aol.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 7:55 a.m. EST

http://www.lights.com/publisher/

GM

Let's see!!!!!!!!!!!
CabanaMon <cabanaman_9949@msn.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 8:56 a.m. EST

The possibilities are endless:
"Abaco Travelog"
"Boating to,from and around Abaco"
"Everything you always wanted to know about Sunburn, Sealice and other off- shore maladies, but were afraid to ask"
"How to Catch and Clean Conch"
"Bunny and Dr. Ralph ride out The Perfect Storm and live to tell about it"
"Sportfishing and Bonefishing in and around the sea of Abaco"
"The History of Abaco as seen through the eyes of Dr. Ralph"
and last but not least,
"The Adventures of the Dr. Ralph,OB/GYN and his Traveling Bunny" (That title should catch folks attention)

C-Mon

BTW I would be willing to head up your world book signing tour.

Thanks; career change at 51??????
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 9:55 a.m. EST

Re: What did I tell you???
Pat S. <psmmech@webtv.net> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 6:55 p.m. EST

Since it was mine and Laura's idea, I think the first book needs to be dedicated to us! The cover could have Bunny floating around on her "noodle"! Of course...Laura and I would have no objection to being on the cover with her and a couple of "noodles" of our own!!!!

Dr R takes Gary M fishing in Abaco, Vol One
Gary M <Uboats737@aol.com> -- on Monday 7/30/01 @ 11:42 a.m. EST