Attitude Adjustment on Abaco 2001: Part 3

Attitude Adjustment on Abaco 2001: Part 3
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Wednesday 7/25/01 @ 8:09 p.m. EST

Tuesday, July 10
I awake again to the sound of rain on my overhead hatch. Attitude is tugging at her lines, must be another squall. I check my watch: it's 6:15. I'm in a snug harbor, it's a playday, and there's no reason for me to get up, with one exception: last night I hung all of yesterday's wet towels, rags, and bathing suits on the bow rail. I do this each night during a cruise; Bunny calls it "Ralfie's Island Laundry." By now they are all drenched again, and I just don't see me putting on foul weather gear and bringing them down. Better to roll over and go back to sleep.

The next time I wake up it's 8:30, much better. From a small bin next to my head I retrieve my glasses, wedding ring, pony tail holder, a bathing suit, and the gold chain I wear around my neck. A quick trip to the head includes a slug of Scope, pulling my hair back, a splash of water in the face, as well as the obvious. I'm on deck within five minutes, and it's a much better day. It's sunny, windy, people are out on the docks, and the fresh air smells invigorating. But I sense trouble: scattered heavy clouds and a brisk SW wind tell me the low is still north of us. In fact, it will sit there for an entire week, bringing similar weather and confounding locals and visitors.

I love being on S Dock at Walker's. It lines the inside of the breakwater that forms the south boundary of the marina. There are picnic tables, grills, and gazebos. Groups of boaters set up camps around each table, stacking their provisions nearby and grilling out each night. Every afternoon evolves into a dock party. Everyone ties stern to, so we all face the dock as we sit in our cockpits. There is constant interaction, banter, and laughter. Last night we bumped into some people from Daytona who had tied up two slips down. We both tried to grill out, but the steady rain frustrated our fires; they finally gave up and ate in the restaurant while Bunny cooked our food on our stove.

My mind drifts back ten years to a beautiful spring day on this very dock. We were tied up with our three sons, ages 11,14, and 17, it was our first full day at Walker's, and everyone was excited. As I sat in the cockpit drinking in the scene a young Bahamian appeared on the dock above the boat and asked if we needed a guide for the day. I stumbled; I had a cruising guide and just figured I'd pick my way through the area. The man asked the kids what they wanted to do and they eagerly responded, "I wanna go fishin', I wanna snorkel, I wanna go to the beach, I wanna see a Bahamian city," etc. The man flashed a bright smile and said he could make it all happen, and then some. I stepped up onto the dock and asked the terms. Myer Albury quoted me $60; I looked at Bunny who nodded enthusiastically, and we agreed to hire him for the day.

One day turned into two, and it was the beginning of my graduate training in "island lore." Myer taught us where to fish, how to rig our tackle "Bahamian style" with no leader, how to find conch and starfish, how to clean them, and how to figure the wind into the day's plan. On a blustery day he took us to quiet coves and beaches, and on into the harbour at Grand Cay where we met the famous Rosie and bought Bahama bread. Wonderful memories.

So now I'm standing on S dock again forming a mental image of Walker's and the surrounding cays. From Walker's to Man-O-War the offshore cays run generally NW to SE, so a SW wind will roil up the waters on the "inside" but leave the offshore side quiet. Thus today's plan will send us exploring the ocean sides of the Grand and Double Breasted Cays.

We throw off our lines at 10:30 and head east, rounding Conch Shell Cay, missing the two large rocks to its north, and slide along Grand Cay's gorgeous beach. We try to sneak into Mermaid Cut, but the shallow water and falling tide force us to retreat. We continue along Mermaid and Big Grand Cays, not finding the heads and shoals the charts warn about until the extreme east end of Big Grand. From my perch in Attitude's tower I can find a path through deeper water, and we successfully cross the shoal.

Continuing E we work our way into the Double Breasted Cays, and anchor on the NE side of Sand Cay. We can argue about where Abaco's most brilliant colors can be found; this area would have to be included in anyone's top three. The turquoises and beiges and blues blend and weave a gorgeous tropical kaleidoscope throughout the myriad of odd rocks and islets that form the Double Breasters. We walk the circumference of Sand Cay, then sink into the warm shallow water of Sand Cay's eastern shoal, allowing the tide to gently carry us right up to Attitude.

As we work NW toward Walker's, the sky darkens and a squall line appears. We anchor in a sheltered little cove on the north shore of Big Grand and ride out the storm in relative comfort. As it passes it occurs to us that this grassy area has great conch potential, so I put on the dive gear and ease into the 6-foot-deep water. In ten minutes I find only one conch, so I swim into the shallows along the beach and work SE. 200 yards from Attitude I find nine of them huddled together. I can only carry three or four at a time, and I don't want them to crawl away. I'm able to stand here, it's about five feet, so I poke my head up and explain the situation to Bunny. She nods, then I ask her if she can bring the boat to me; she gives me the "my husband is a lunatic look." But with a little encouragement she fires up the motors, coaxes the windlass into bringing up the big 25-pound plow, then eases over to where I'm minding the conch. The wind holds her off the beach while I pile our treasure onto the dive platform.

While Bunny pilots us back toward port, I "knock" the conchs. I have a masonry hammer that has a heavy single claw; it's perfect for punching out a conch shell. Three taps and I'm in; then I run the knife along the outside of the spiral center and pry the foot away from the shell. As I feel it give way, I pull the claw, and out comes the conch. I can knock 10 conch in 15 minutes; cleaning them is a whole different deal. After we tie up, Bunny washes down the boat while I take the conchies over to the (somewhat) air-conditioned fish cleaning building. I brave flies, a really nasty smell, and a thousand questions from onlookers for a little over an hour until all ten are cleaned and washed. The conch steaks go in the cooler in a Ziplok bag; we'll eat them later. Tonight, it's dinner at the restaurant, a rum drink in the cockpit, some conversation with our dockmates, and an early crash in the bunk. We're finally on "island time."

Clockwise from upper left: Attitude in her slip at Walker's, our conchs, Ralfie's Island Laundry

Re: Attitude Adjustment on Abaco 2001: Part 3
Donna S/V PELICAN -- on Wednesday 7/25/01 @ 9:20 p.m. EST

Two Captains are always better than one. Way to go, BUNNY!! Looking forward to the next chapter. Sure hope the weather clears up. The pics are great!!! For those of us who couldn't cross, you are breaking our hearts!!

Having been aboard Attitude.......
Gary M <Uboats737@aol.com> -- on Wednesday 7/25/01 @ 10:20 p.m. EST

your reports are extra nice!! I can visualize it all so well!!

I'll NEVER forget how "touchy" the throttles are!!

Sorry............again!!

GM

Re: Attitude Adjustment on Abaco 2001: Part 3
Jan/kev <janine_knight@sportsauthority.com> -- on Thursday 7/26/01 @ 8:00 a.m. EST

Your reports are great. Like reading a good novel. You really should be a writer.

Cleaning conch
Charlotte Couple <sailr@excite.com> -- on Thursday 7/26/01 @ 9:02 a.m. EST

I know there is an art to it, but the best I've seen is Brendal at Green Turtle Cay. He stood at the stern of his dive boat and cleaned two conch in about 5 minutes while we were underway on a relatively choppy sea.

He's a machine!!!!!!!!!!
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Thursday 7/26/01 @ 4:58 p.m. EST

He's a machine!!!!!!!!!!
Dr.Ralph <rbundy@cfl.rr.com> -- on Thursday 7/26/01 @ 4:58 p.m. EST

Dr. Ralph==what kind of boat is Attitude? Great p
Mark W <winninger@kca.net> -- on Thursday 7/26/01 @ 9:03 a.m. EST

If you go down the Board a ways...
AbacoPeach <AbacoPeach@aol.com> -- on Thursday 7/26/01 @ 9:20 a.m. EST

you will get a very detailed description of Dr. Ralph's boat in Attitude Adjustment on Abaco 2001: Part One.

Great Reading, Keep em coming!
Green With Envy <denny-telacom@ioa.com> -- on Thursday 7/26/01 @ 10:12 a.m. EST